I am using OrcaSlicer/BambuStudio with the P1P. Also, the hotend currently has hardened steel gears and a 0.8mm nozzle.

Am I forced to print the lego pieces slowly? Is there a setting or function that I can tweak to slow down my printer when it reaches the tiny circular geometry?

    • _haha_oh_wow_English
      21·
      9 months ago

      As great as it is at detail, even resin won’t be perfect. Plus it won’t last if you use it because of the nature of resin.

      • JoShmoe@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
        2·
        7 months ago

        I had assumed they were referring to pouring and not a resin printer. Using a mold is definitely a full proof approach.

        • _haha_oh_wow_English
          4·
          9 months ago

          Sure but Lego’s ridiculous tolerances are very real (and very impressive if you ask me).

          • littleblue✨@lemmy.worldEnglish
            1·
            9 months ago

            While I’m also impressed at LEGO for that reason among others, printing in resin is the only way to make proxies even remotely viable — even if such will be fractions of a millimeter off from originals. 🤘🏽

            • _haha_oh_wow_English
              3·
              9 months ago

              You could probably get good results with something like sintering too but good luck affording that setup lol. FDM might be able to get close but it would take a lot of work to get and keep it there.

              IMO, if you didn’t care about pairing with actual Legos, printing a mold might be the way to go (especially if you wanted to make a bunch).

              If you wanted to just have something that looked like a Lego brick and you didn’t plan to repeatedly build/rebuild, resin would definitely be the way to go though. I don’t think resin would stand up to regular use though.