Trying to get this gate to sit level and swing freely. I used an adjust-a-gate kit. The width is 92", height is 6’. I have used the lightest possible wood, and I can’t get this damn thing to hang straight. The turnbuckle that came with it bent straight and came flying out of the holes, so I used a different one I had on hand. Clearly the wheel isn’t doing anything except causing the gate to warp since it isn’t centered under the weight.
I want to add a diagonal cross brace from the bottom hinge to the top corner, but I’m not sure how exactly to do it with the 3 horizontal boards.
I’m also considered replacing the hinges with 3 extra long strap hinges, one on each horizontal board.
What do you guys think?
With a gate that long you may have to attach a support wheel on the bottom. You’ll always have sagging issues using wood. I tried doing a 4x8’ gate for the parking area where I put my camper. Would always sag over time, even with heavy hinges and steel cable on the diagonal. Land was sloped so couldn’t do a support wheel. Ended up having to do two 4’ gates either side instead.
I tried using the wheel in the picture, because it’s not directly under the gate, I think it’s what’s causing it to bow. These are our driveway gates, and I have two 8-ft gates meeting in the middle on either side of the driveway. That’s the idea anyway, but currently I just have this piece of shit seen in the picture. The driveway slopes down away from the gate when it opens, which I don’t care about. I just want it to sit level while closed. 95% of the time it is going to be closed and sitting there, and will only be opened when we are leaving or coming home.
Well, there IS a picture. On mobile, didn’t see it the first time. Yeah, with a single wheel mounted like that on an arm, that gate is definitely going to sag over like that. Maybe add another of those wheels on the opposite side so the support is balanced?
I thought about that, but the front boards are only 5/8. I don’t trust that long term. I’m going to remove the wheel and put three long ass strap hinges on the horizontal boards. I’m hoping that will distribute the weight better.
I own a company that does fences, whenever someone suggests a big gate my first reaction is always “nope”. They never stay square, they’re too heavy. It might be a few months if they’re getting regular use, maybe a year if you’re lucky, but either way I fully wash my hands of that shit. I won’t warranty it and I do everything I can to discourage them.
If you’re insisting on a driveway gate you need to find someone who can weld aluminum tube and make a frame with built-in hinges that’ll rest on a pin. I don’t know the actual name of that style of hinge, similar to a J bolt but my welder makes a huge plate for them to attach to a wall or post. Then you can cover that frame with wood, or preferably something even lighter.
I’ve made a 24’ aluminum and vinyl gate like this that rested on a single hinge, and it worked. It was expensive, impractical, and had other issues, but gosh darn, it didn’t sag.
Wood is just too heavy and not strong enough for a gate that gets used regularly, any fix you make is temporary
I really appreciate this comment. I was hoping that using the thin cedar pickets would have been enough to keep it light. I’m not averse to redoing the gate at some point, or even tearing our the gate posts and using 6x6 posts ajd putting them even deeper, but right now I just need to get these things up and working.
I just don’t know how to add the diagonal brace board with the middle support board in the way.
Looking at the images you’ve attached, this appears to be an 8 ft wide by 6 ft tall fence. That’s a good amount of weight in just the wood, and there isn’t any part of the design that diagonally braces the frame, except the steel cable… which tore from its mounts.
My layman’s view is that you absolutely need diagonal wood elements, which should only be installed after unloading the fence, either by removing the boards or by propping up the wheel-end so the frame returns to being squared. If the wheel interferes with this, remove it for the time being.
But I think you’d still need the steel cable, and if that has broken from its originally designed mooring, then this gate is already compromised. You may have to start over with a new Adjust-A-Gate kit or repair the current one so the cable will mount to the steel parts, rather than the wood.
I would say to rectify the diagonal supports first, before doing anything with the hinges, since if the hinges were actually the root problem, this gate would have already fallen over. That said, it seems to me that such a wide gate might have called for more substantial hinges.
The other commenter’s suggestion to consider a pair of less-wide gates is also sound, if the goal is a minimal-fuss gate that will last at least a decade of additional sagging and weather.
Thank you for this very detailed response. Unfortunately I can’t use narrower gates, since both 8 ft gates close in the middle as this is a driveway gate.
I am absolutely planning on putting diagonal brace boards in, but since the front material is only 5/8 in thick, and the back has three horizontal boards, I didn’t know the best way to put the diagonal brace boards in.