Pro or not it can still be air filled.
Pro or not it can still be air filled.
As long you don’t have SHR disks, 2TB HDD should be find. These days 2TB SSDs are about the same price as a 2TB HDD or at least much more affordable, a lot faster, quieter, and use less power.
Way Overkill.
Single pass read (SMART test is fine) and single pass write (ones, zeros, random, whatever you want) is more than adequate to determine any issues a new disk may have out of the gate, unless you want to isolate a fringe case condition and waste time and wear on your hard drive doing so.
2TB is only the maximum with 32-bit file systems. We’re well beyond that.
From Windows, you should be able to go into disk management, right click the partition and choose “Extend Volume”.
I would think you’d be able to get at least a 4TB HDD for the price of a 2TB SSD, and with the right sale, even an 8TB. WD Blue are CMR and while for some reason hard to come by at the moment, run about $100-130 depending on the day.
Thanks. I’m aware of that, but unfortunately there’s nothing to tell you what is keeping it from being released. Heck even just plugging it in without accessing it, it can be locked.
The only thing I’ve found is this utility that costs $30: https://safelyremove.com/features.htm
This is the kind of stuff that should be made readily available by the OS instead of a generic “can’t eject now” nonsense.
I just disable windows caching to USB devices, and solves the problem, but shouldn’t need to.
I understand. If you want basic file storage and nothing else, sure, the ARM variant will work fine. But in that case, consider other options that are cheaper than Synology.
But my point is if you’re buying into Synology, you get tons of great apps from Synology that are very useful, but can’t make use of many of them due to performance, limited RAM (just 2GB available for DS423) or just that they don’t bother to compile for ARM.
And if you ever do anything more than basic file storage, expect your general performance to be affected.
It’s like asking if a bicycle will get you to work and back. Sure it will do the job, but there’s better options out there.
Problem is I will plug a drive in, not even write anything to it, and it frequently keeps it hostage indefinitely sometimes. Either shut down the PC or yank it out.
LOL That’s awesome.
Wi-fi is entirely dependent on your network setup, it has nothing to do with your NAS. You hook up your NAS to your router and if it has wi-fi set up you would access it like anything else on your network.
I’d opt for the four bay, just make sure it’s an Intel or AMD CPU (the “+” variants), none of the ARM CPU’s (like the Realtek) .It’s just too weak and you lose out on a lot of Synology apps because they have very limited options with the ARM CPU versions. Their “Active Backup for Business” app is excellent for backing up client PC’s, but is not supported by the ARM CPU version, just as one example.
I’d start with much larger drives, better $/TB and last you longer without having to upgrade. Start with two of same capacity and format as SHR-1. You can then add other disks as needed, and give you one disk redundancy.
You can grab 18TB refurbished/recertified/used for $160-180. Visit serverpartdeals as they have a good reputation and 2 year warranty on used drives. Otherwise pay the premium for a new disk with 3 or 5 year warranty.
Hard drives make noise. In most cases in a small office environment it’s no louder than other ambient noise. Otherwise set it up in a “server closet” just make sure it has plenty of ventilation, or opt for SSD’s and pay that premium.
But lastly, don’t forget about backups. Either an external drive that you connect periodically to backup your NAS, then store away from your primary NAS, or buy another NAS for backup purposes, or store it in the cloud.
Only a small sample, but I’ve purchased about a dozen that I’ve used personally, and for builds for other people that have been churning for years so far so good. Just make sure it gets adequate cooling.
As far as location of the SAS connectors, 9211-8i should be facing parallel out the front of the card. I believe the 9207-8i and 9210-8i with similar specs are perpendicular out the middle of the card.
Well when your PC holds your USB device hostage for no apparent reason (looking at you, Windows), sometimes you have to just yank it.
How is it formatted? NTFS? ExFAT? BTRFS?
Haha, I felt the same vibe.
2TB? Why so small? Go big or go home.
WD Blue 8TB is a CMR drive and just as good as any NAS drive. But I’d avoid any consumer grade hard drives 8TB and under:
Except it’s not always the case. I had a few WD Elements/Easystores that I had data on, shucked them, and couldn’t read them in Windows. It wasn’t encrypted, just something funky done with the partitioning and couldn’t use it until I destroyed existing and created new partitions.
But it can’t hurt to try it first, you should be able to throw it back in the enclosure to get access to the data, although good idea to have a backup anyhow.
There is no such thing as “RAID 5” with Storage Spaces, it’s just “Storage Spaces with Parity”
You will have to set up your appropriate columns and block size using Powershell. I don’t have any links handy but start searching up Storage Spaces Columns Powershell.
I made several attempts and never got it working well. It’s honestly best left to Enterprise setups who know wtf they’re doing. That, and I’m not too bright either, so maybe that’s a problem too. LOL.
There is no published TBW for the disk that I can tell. You’d have to ask Kingston. And even then most SSD’s can write 10x the TBW without failure.
If you’re putting them in RAID make sure the drives are designed for RAID and the OS/File System can pass the TRIM command on to the SSD’s.
You can always get a case like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IIBO56
And mount four of these in there: https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00V5JHOXQ