LAN traffic not WAN. So yes your internet is limiting but ONLY to the internet. Otherwise a workstation to a NAS/server could be up to 10x faster

You can tell by the IP address range if they’re on the same network, normally. If device behind router B can successfully ping device on router A then you’re on the same

Start from scratch and do it right the first time. Feed enters home in Basement/Utilities/Comms area. In that area is the main switch where all runs terminate to with at bare minimum 2 jacks at each location but 3 is preferred. 2 allow a router to be placed anywhere, 1 for WAN and 1 for Lan back to switch then a 3rd for an additional device at that location direct to main switch. Extra runs are easy if you’re already there pulling wires.

Plan runs for at least 2 locations on opposite sides of the rooms for best layout options. So cables don’t have to span doorways windows etc.

Then when cabling is in place a managed switch and router VLANS can be used to separate. Or a 2nd physical switch for the tenant and a VLANS capable router with a port separated to the tenant switch. Then in the tenant space they have the option to plug a router in or you can provide an AP for Wi-Fi. But that will all give you maximum stability, capacity and security.

A vlan router can be as simple as a Thin Client, miniPC or open router appliance with multi port NIC added as needed running OpnSense OpenWRT etc. Those units can be used for anywhere between $25-150 normally and software is free NIC’s are cheap

Router 2 should be a switch unless you need the extra stuff for something. At a minimum it should be in AP mode. Otherwise it’s very unlikely you’re getting “collisions”, it’s just humming along like networks do

Bro…you don’t have to remove drywall. I don’t understand why people get so insistent on removing drywall. Get a number of Pros in there and I bet none of them will say we have to tear all the drywall off. It’s probably not your job don’t limit their abilities on your own lack of knowledge and skills.

Mikrotik tends to have very good products

You’re planning it incorrectly. Generally ALL jacks need a single run back to the basementUUtilities/Comms area of home where the large main switch is. The internet feed should also enter and terminate there. Then devices are connected or patched to wherever in the home you need.

Wiring 1 room to another is the wrong way to do it.

DON’T use network cable splitters, use at minimum a Gigabit switch with enough ports to do what you need, ideally with extras

Better to just run more cables properly but technically no

Many, I included prefer to run router on dedicated hardware to keep everything up and running rather than taking down the whole network for changes updates errors etc

Use proper WAP’s designed to do the job not routers designed to do a different job. But yes you’re correct they’re working as designed you want them in AP mode. Many newer have that option but tons of older don’t.You also want to do a Wi-Fi site survey and see what channels everything is on and spread channels out.

hardware options Netgate sells their own appliances( they write/maintain pfSense) the devices are a little pricey but also installed and operational, guaranteed to work and newer faster updates. You’re also supporting the maintenance of a free enterprise level router software that runs mega corporations. 

Used are plentiful and cheaper Most any single processor 1U short depth server like Dell R210ii, R230 or similar relabeled, Datto 1U, Hyve Zeuss 1U, 1U Supermicro etc Many already have Dual 1Gb NIC but a 10Gb card can be added 

There’s also Mini PC routers like Protectli, Firewalla, Qotom Q555G6-S05, Intel NUC, Beelink EQ12 and many more

Thin Clients with an expansion port like HP T620 Plus or HP T730 and add a dual port Intel Nic up to 10Gb/fiber etc

Mini PC ThinkCentre M720q, need a p/n 01AJ9040 pcie riser card, i350-T4 v2 4 port RJ45, x550-T2 for 2 10Gb RJ45, i226 4-2.5Gb RJ45 More info: https://forums.servethehome.com/index.php?threads/lenovo-thinkcentre-thinkstation-tiny-project-tinyminimicro-reference-thread.34925/

Smaller pc’s like the Dell Optiplex are also good options with extra slots to add NIC like upgrade to 10Gb/Fiber etc

Checkout the pinned comments for tips on planning and layout Home Networking Basics https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjRKID2ucPY&list=PLqkmlrpDHy5M8Kx7zDxsSAWetAcHWtWFl

Can’t realistically compare a new product line to a used older tech…they’re just not comparable in price never will be

Best option and highest bandwidth is gonna be run conduit and a fiber cable. Then in garage can either terminate into a switch or media converter. The add a WAP or just plug in devices

Run exterior 1 1/2" conduit with long sweep 90⁰ bends and LB into the structure. Here’s an overview

There’s tons of options for hiding cables. Special trim that’s hollow or has a groove in the back etc. Or simply run the cables in corner of ceiling then a piece of crown moulding to cover it etc.

Ask around or rent the SDS hammer drill for quick easy work of it. If you need a channel can use an angle grinder with a masonry blade. Use a small pressure sprayer of some sort with water to keep dust down. Use a shopvac and assistant too for the dust. Then with a couple 1" or water deep cuts horizontal use a chisel bit in the hammer drill to chip it out.

You can also use a regular circular saw with masonry blade for horizontal cuts. I’ve fount it easier to cut say 1" deep to get your quick line and make it straight to start then cut full depth as needed and blade will follow first cut. Again light water spray helps. Concrete patch can fill it then a little paint an nobody will ever know.

On inside use angle grinder to cut rectangle for a box at the location. Then chip out, a 3/4" concrete chisel can do detailed work.

Or run conduit on outside. The exterior grey pvc can be scuffed and painted to match exterior.

There’s also lots of different trim options with a groove in back or hollow to run cables.I always suggest 3 cables to every normal location with 5 or so at a tv/media location.

One may be able to run through ceiling/attic area or a basement.

There’s lot’s of info here and in pinned comments.

Home Networking Basics https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjRKID2ucPY&list=PLqkmlrpDHy5M8Kx7zDxsSAWetAcHWtWFl

Outdoor Conduit HowTo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vmX-hona2o&list=PLqkmlrpDHy5M8Kx7zDxsSAWetAcHWtWFl&index=2

The Unifi system requires a controller. Either a cloudkey, a Dream Machine type device OR the controller software running on a device on the network. But it technically only needs to run for setup or datalogging. Then can be turned off if desired.

All mine are older but Asus have traditionally been decent. I personally have switched over to using a custom router for none options and capability and a WAP (Wi-Fi Access Point) like Unifi. The WAP tends to be cheaper and generally all one needs to upgrade.

If you’re looking for a router specifically a mini pc or open router box can make it easy. Like Protectli Quotom etc. Then run OpnSense on it and will be the last router software you need to learn. Consumer grade stuff is generally mediocre and prices have gotten a bit ridiculous.

If you think you might want multigig LAN ports in the future look for one with the ports or a Thin Client/miniPC/SFF with expansion port and add a NIC to suit your needs.

Should clarify what exactly you mean by not connecting…to the WiFi. Does it connect when plugging in?

So you want us to suggest a device that will connect to your equipment and solve your needs…but you don’t tell us what the equipment is or what connection options it has…that’s a real problem. If you have an RJ45 port on it you can plug in any normal router or AP with switch.

That “should” work