How do you open the plane’s door and keep it open against the wind like that?

I don’t know… Seems like you can pretty clearly see legs and arms flailing.

So far I’ve just been using the basic obd2 Bluetooth things but the apps available are very limited. I’ve been able to do some custom PIDs for some of my vehicles, and others you can often find tools that allow you to do some specific programming but it lacks a lot. I’ve been considering some of the ones you can find for around $400 from China but I’m not sure if those are anywhere near the same level as the 10k snap on ones.

I just wanna say I love your comment and the KOTH references.

I have never actually tried printing off the device itself, the touch screen is very confusing. I always submit print jobs over the network via OrcaSlicer. But yes, that is exactly the kind of thing I meant when I said it has some odd quirks.

If you zoom in to 1m resolution and then slowly zoom out, you’ll see the name change back and forth several times. Very odd.

I believe it says that the shortest building is less than 50m. It’s not implying that a 50m+ building needs to be there.

What does fiber optic mean in this context? Like a fiber optic cable attached to the drone for communicating with it?

Weirdness: The default g-code for the machine does silly things like park the nozzle over the build plate letting it ooze, instead of over the nozzle wiper/waste container.

The filament change routine is strange, requiring you to remove the bowden tube to cut the filament every time. This is easily fixed by printing a filament cutter and using that to cut the filament.

The bowden tube rubs against the top plexiglass lid for the machine, requiring you to print a riser for the lid to avoid it getting all scratched up.

The door for the machine is an odd shape design with no handle making it a little annoying to get a grip to open it.

The filament holder they include is a very bad design, flexes heavily with a full roll of filament and I have had spools fall off several times while printing.

The touch screen menu isn’t very intuitive and it can be very laggy at times.

Good features for the price point: Fully enclosed with built in chamber heater.

Pretty decent auto leveling system.

Timelapse camera.

Runs klipper/mainsail and input shaping is pretty cool.

I have around 500 hours on mine and I haven’t had any prints fail that were the fault of the machine so I’m pretty impressed by that. And I find the features and capabilities to be pretty great for the price point. They just could use to do some polishing of the design

I have a Qidi Q1 Pro and I’m pretty happy with it. Very fast precise prints and pretty reliable. There’s definitely some strange design decisions and weird quirks to it and Bambu machines feel way more polished. Overall I’d definitely recommend the Qidi machines but they are not quite as simple for people with no 3d printing experience. They are very feature rich and amazing printers for the price.

*human fall flat *Jackbox party pack 4

Thanks again!

*Goat simulator *Farming sim 17

• chaos engine
• Capsized

• earthx
• Elite dangerous
• Deus Ex: Game of the Year Edition

Thank you for doing this!

I’ve been listening to the “Destiny’s Crucible” series by Olan Thorensen. Currently on the 8th book “A Fearful Symmetry”.

It’s about a guy from earth that has been transported, by aliens, to another planet that happens to also have humans but their culture is at a much lower technology level(around what earth was in the 1600s). And it follows him as he adjusts to the culture, and carefully starts introducing innovations.

Whats a reputable source to compare ratings/reviews for these machines? Do you have any personal recommendations?

I got Hexcodle #342 in 4! Score: 70%

⏫⏫✅⏫🔼⏬ 🔼✅✅🔽✅🔼 🔼✅✅🔼✅🔼 ✅✅✅✅✅✅

https://hexcodle.com

mAh/Wh is just the capacity of the battery, and it’s often exaggerated or just plain incorrect on these cheap mass produced batteries. So battery life may be slightly different than intended for the product but it won’t cause any issues. As long as voltage is similar(all lipo batteries are 3.7-4.2v, some manufacturers label with 3.7, some with 3.8, etc. But all cells of the same battery chemistry are the same voltage range) it’ll operate and charge just fine.

484588 is the dimensions of the battery. So 4.8mm thick, 45mm wide, 88mm long. Any lipo that fits in there will do the trick, but obviously similar size is best. You should be able to find something similar on AliExpress; it would help to round the dimensions to a more standard number. For example, search “504090 3.7v” assuming a 5x40x90mm battery would fit in the cavity.

Good afternoon guys. IWNDWYT! It’s my day off and it’s hard to keep out of my head, but I’m happy I can at least post here for some community.