Correct me if I’m wrong, but didn’t Prusa specifically say you don’t need to keep the CORE One doesn’t need to be open because of its temperature control?

Been using it for about five years now. I absolutely love it. But I will say some of these comments make it sound like it’s a little easier than it is. I’d say about 80% of your knowledge from Android will transfer over and just work. But the last 20% is a bit of a learning curve, and will take at least a few weeks to get the hang of.

What I recommended to some of my friends that switched is to get the phone and mess around with it for a few weeks before you switch your sim. Then you’ll get the hang of things like alternative app stores and sandboxed play services, and you’ll figure out what you can and can’t do.

I will say the vast majority of things do work easily because of protection compatibility mode and sandboxed play services. But there will be some things that are just more hassle then they’re worth. I find keeping a second device, like a tablet, without a custom ROM makes that stuff easier.

And there are some things that seem impossible to get working properly, at least for me. For example, casting to a TV is basically impossible from what I can tell. Also, tap to pay, even for things like tickets doesn’t work (although if you have play services, you can use Google wallet for things with barcodes).

Overall, it’s totally worth trying out. Just don’t set your expectations too high. You’re not getting a completely “just works” experience.

As for other custom ROMs, I’ve tried CalyxOS and LineageOS for MicroG. I didn’t find either of them quite as good, but that was many years ago. Maybe they’ve gotten better.

I’ve been reading the other comments, and while people are encouraging, their comments seem a bit too “you HAVE to learn CAD.” You definitely don’t NEED to know CAD. I made basic parts and modifications in the slicer for nearly a year after I started printing, and it worked really well. However, if you are considering learning a full CAD program, I have two pieces of advice.

First pertains to if you are working with functional parts. Then you are talking about a parametric CAD program (fusion, onshape, FreeCAD, etc.). In this case, I think it’s worth learning for you, and it’s not as hard as it seems. You say you have SketchUp experience, so I’m assuming you have decent spatial reasoning. I know someone with no tech literacy nor programming experience who learned a CAD program very well in less than a month of following tutorials in her free time. Just give it a try, and it’s a skill you’ll be happy to have.

If you are working with cosmetic parts like miniatures and helmets, then you might need to use something like Blender. Admittedly, that can be even more challenging than the other CAD programs I mentioned. However, if you spend a few hours learning some basics from YouTube, you should be able to do fundemental things like fixing holes.

Hope this helps. Good luck with your printing endeavors!

Interesting idea. How easy is it to start and LLC?

I love virtual cards. I use privacy.com for all my online stuff. Not a solution for this purpose unfortunately.

As for your divide-it-up approach, that’s an interesting thought. I guess I’m a little concerned about signing up for several cards with several companies and several privacy policies. Feels a little weird to me, but I do see the merit in not having all your eggs in one basket.

As far as the Apple Card and Goldman Sachs is concerned, I’m still trying to figure out which details are given to whom. Its hard to find info about it. I wouldn’t be surprised if you’re right and it’s the same as any other card from Goldman Sachs.

You can have a primary network and guest network. As far as I can tell, you can’t have more than that.

You can set DNS manually.

Here is a link to a pretty comprehensive user guide that explains all the settings. Maybe I missed something about the SSIDs. https://static.inseego.com/us/download/mifixpro-userguide-tmobile.pdf

I recently got their hotspot and its been good. I got the MIFI X PRO 5G and have no complaints. I can’t speak to the privacy of it, but it uses a T-Mobile sim card. Do you have any questions in particular?

I try to buy things on GOG when I can just for the sake of diversifying my dependence on one company.

There are plenty of guides to setting up Heroic Launcher on the Deck. Once its set up, it’s easy to install games.

I’ve found GOG games to run perfectly fine, and cloud saves work perfectly.

Lastly, I saw some other people saying GOG doesn’t have the latest version of this game specifically, so definitely check that before buying.

Admittedly, some of the games I’m about to mention take time to get good enough at to turn your brain off, but here’s some of my favorites for listening to audiobooks.

Bloons TD6

Any roguelite - currently I’m loving balatro and spelunky 2

Backpack battles

Tetris Effect

Mario sports games

Mini Metro

Kingdom

In general, I find it helpful to tell yourself that it’s totally okay to “lose.” When you are listening to an audiobook, you should be spending most of your attention on that. You don’t need to take the game seriously.

Thanks for replying! I like your suggestions.

In addition

• They have filed some controversial/anti-innovative patents.

• Their printers phone home with encrypted information. Last I checked, there were speculated security and privacy issues with it, though someone should correct me if this was resolved.

• They only open source their slicer because of the GPL licence, but they don’t open source anything else (firmware, hardware, etc).

Again, I just recommend people look into these things before they buy a printer. Do your own research and come to your own conclusions :)

As other people have mentioned, Prusa and Bambu make the most reliable printers on the market. The plus side to Bambu is the price. They are definitely cheaper than prusa printers.

However, I would make sure to be aware of the controversies surrounding Bambu. This is not a deal breaker for many people, but it wouldn’t be right not to at least take a glance at them. Especially considering you are on Lemmy.

This is where Prusa shines. They have not had nearly the same amount of controversies. Their hardware, firmware, and software are all open source. They also have amazing customer support. As others said, a used Prusa can be found within your price range.

This is just something to know of. I know a lot of people who are happy with both brands, and you can’t really go wrong either way. I just think this is another thing to consider.

Admittedly, I bought it used. However, it had very little use and was a prebuilt model. I’d be surprised if that has much to do with the issues I’ve had since I didn’t have any issues the first month or so.

The issues I’ve had have been all over the place from fans breaking, to having to reflash the RasPi I put in it, to it digging the nozzle into the build plate and ruining it. At one point, the print lifted off the build plate and clumped up to the point I had to replace most of the hotend, although that could happen on any printer I guess.

I think I’m leaning towards a Voron kit. Self-sourcing sounds awful.

I didn’t realize they have that big of a sale going on. However, I still don’t want to spend that kind of money with Creality until it’s been in many peoples hands for a while. I haven’t heard the best things about them as a brand overall.

I’m curious to hear if you find a solution to this as you play with it more. I think some people are able to make it work with some setups, so I’m curious if something makes the Prusa different. If there isn’t a way to make it work, I think this has to be crossed off my list of options.

I like to do a large variety of prints. Small, big, batch, even using separate filament for support. So yes, I expect to use lots of purged filament, but I don’t think that is really avoidable.

I agree that tool changers are probably the endgame. However, given that the Prusa XL is the only one on the market, and no other brand has even announced anything, I think its going to be at least two years before an affordable high-quality tool changer hits the market. I think these are my options in the mean time.

I do know about the DAKSH, but given that it’s an early community project, don’t think that will be ready any sooner.

My current printer is a MK3S+, and I love that Prusa is still pushing firmware updates for it. However, my personal experience with the machine has been pretty lackluster with multiple parts breaking and sub-par print quality. In fact, something else just broke yesterday (I have yet to diagnose exactly what) which is making me more eager to upgrade. I do wonder if I just got unlucky considering their reputation, but I can’t say I’m rushing back to then with enthusiasm.

I do agree with your general point about open source. For that reason, the Prusa, Voron, and Ratrig are the most intriguing options. However, if one of the other two are likely to provide a better experience, I think it’s silly to not even consider them.