I was installing a TP-link HS210 3-way smart switch in my dinning room. On the side with the mains power I do have a neutral wire, but on the other switch I have no neutral wire from the wall (for that breaker). I do have a switch that’s on the kitchen breaker right next to it, though, and that has a neutral and ground.
In my breaker box, both the neutral and grounds appear to be on the same row of lugs.
Running the neutral wire from the switch to the ground works, and I’m thinking it’s because it’s all going to the same place. This specific switch didn’t explicitly say to do this, but other switches I’ve installed did.
Now, I could run the switch’s neutral to the neutral on the kitchen circuit. I didn’t at first because I had the other switch wired wrong, so I thought it was the no neutral switch causing issues.
Correct on all counts. I didn’t want to go into too much depth because it’s hard for DIYers to understand some of this stuff but I think you nailed it.
OP, this is what I was alluding to when I said that what you’re trying to do would trip a GFCI. You know, the things that stop you from getting shocked or electrocuted. And sharing that neutral in a different circuit, it can likely be done based on your written description, but I wouldn’t trust you to do it safely/correctly.
Go with a different type of switch or call an electrician for your install if you are locked into your plan.
I’m not a complete layman, it’s just been a few years since my university courses on fundamentals of electronics (which covered AC fairly extensively).
The switch itself is basically just a relay and esp chip, so it likely is only drawing milliamps. But, I’ll drop a neutral and ground line into the box and tie it into the junction box in the attic.
I was mostly just trying to avoid having to go into the attic.