• BigDanishGuyEnglish
    23·
    4 days ago

    First rule of PETG-club is “dry your filament”, second rule of PETG-club is “dry your filament”… Thrid rule? Nope, it’s “store your filament dry”

    Jokes aside, other things you could look at:

    • nozzle, how worn is it?
    • calibration tests: did you do a temp tower? Calibration cube? Retraction test?
    • The vertical surface doesn’t necessarily have that appearance as a result of wet filament. In my experience, wet PETG will result in more random variations than that. It looks too regular IMHO, is everything that should be tightened actually tightened?
    • have you calibrated the extruder steps?
    • bluewing@lemm.eeEnglish
      3·
      3 days ago

      I would bet on retraction here. Dial that in and 90% of the stringing goes away.

      • bluewing@lemm.eeEnglish
        5·
        3 days ago

        Or just use a textured PEI plate at the proper bed temperature. There is very little need for special adjuncts to print PETG.

      • Marvelicious@fedia.io
        5·
        4 days ago

        I pop my PEI bed with finished print into the freezer for about 5 minutes. Pops right off, every time. No tape, no glue, I just wash the bed with soapy water between prints.

  • Siff@mstdn.social
    15·
    4 days ago

    @mooklepticon I print almost exclusively with PETG and what I have found that works for me is to dry the filament, even if coming right out of the package. With some filaments, decreasing the nozzle temperature also helps.

  • JigglySackles@lemmy.worldEnglish
    4·
    3 days ago

    I don’t have issues with it stringing, but bed adhesion is a pain in the ass. Can’t get it to consistently adhere

  • faebudo@infosec.pubEnglish
    10·
    4 days ago

    Your first step will be learning to dry it and keep it dry. I can recommend a scale that can resolve to at least 0.1g so you can measure the weight loss while drying. This will help in seeing when it’s sufficiently dry (put it in dryer and weigh it every hour) and if it took moisture again.

  • ImgonnatrythisEnglish
    8·
    4 days ago

    Honestly you are off to a pretty good start. As everyone will tell you, you need to keep this stuff really dry. If that still doesn’t work, try different settings. If that doesn’t work, try a different brand. Unlike pla that is pretty forgiving on manufacturing tolerances, I’ve seen big differences in quality with PETG. In my hands, Id consider your kitty a perfectly acceptable print. Butane torch the hairs and you’ll have a perfectly clean model

    Edit: also play with avoid crossing perimeters settings.

    • mooklepticon@lemm.eeOPEnglish
      2·
      4 days ago

      260°C nozzle on the bed 225°C nozzle afterwards

      Wow, that’s a huge difference between 1st layer and later! I’ve never seen that big a delta.

      • schmaker@schmaker.eu
        3·
        4 days ago

        @mooklepticon
        I think my Z-offset is too high and I’m compensating it with temperature, but I don’t care - nozzle cleans itself well, prints well and even structure is good.

        When it works, don’t touch it 😀

        • spitfire@lemmy.worldEnglish
          1·
          3 days ago

          I generally print first layer at 260/250 and the latter ones 10 degrees colder. I do the same with the build plate - starting with 90, and leaving it at 80 throughout the ret of the print. With some plates you have to bee mindful of PETG sticking too well (possibly damaging them) but it works out really well with PET/PEO plates, letting the print retain the texture of the build plate. On PEI I either print it cooler, or use glue (in this case it makes it easier to separate the print from the plate).