When I was going to university in the early 90s I was taking computer programming for business administration, COBOL & FORTRAN, could not drop it quick enough. Such an old boring language (never stuck with programming, maybe they’re all like that).

Bunch of my class mates did pretty well with the whole Y2K issue though.

lol no Irving is a fuel station in Canada. Who knew we were that racist.

Probably every person of colour I suppose.

The drill bit is good, until you get it to surface.

I agree on the podcast front, and what makes it worse it’s for their own podcasts which aren’t generating them any revenue so why have 5 minutes of ads 3 x per show for your own stuff. Not unless the other podcasts generate revenue through ads, but I doubt it, just getting you used to it for when it becomes a Black Mirror episode and you must watch your ads as prescribed by the government (aka business).

https://hackaday.com/2022/09/05/food-safe-3d-printing-a-study/

Been there, done that, would do it again in an instant.

Enjoy your beer mate!

If I recall this was a big issue in Europe with a group of Irish guys doing the same thing.

Well that was the problem, thanks for everyone’s input.

So I sliced and printed a different model, and then rotated 1 by 180°, it is somewhat weird as the lowest part on the right model seems ok but as the wall built up on the inside it was getting the artifacts. The model on the left was getting the artifacts on the outer piece but not the inner.

In rotating the models after, the artifacts are on the opposite side.

I noticed it was starting at the seam, I have the scarf joint on contour, and noticed that “scarf around entire wall” was checked so trying reprinting to see if that is the issue.

Good point, I have mainly been printing these items for the hydroponic tower. I do have other versions that I can check. I think after this set prints I will add some basic shapes in different orientations to see if there is issues still.

That being said I did print some other items that were stacked and each one is much thinner but there are no artifacts on the outer walls.

I re-lubed the rods before starting another set and still having the issue. I was thinking it had something to do with the Bowden tube but even at the back where the tube doesn’t move much the issue still happens.

Is there a specific lube that is better than others?

Thanks for your reply, to your point yes they still fit, been having this issues for a bit now as I’m up to about 40 of these netcups and the associated other pieces for the grow towers.

I think the belts are good, but will double check.

Depending on how close you are to you friends you can look at Grohman

https://grohmannknives.com/index.php/products/kitchen

The are based on Nova Scotia.

Easy there pussies can be useful, unlike that shitheel.

Funny and sad that the Canadian taxpayers are footing the bill for some friend of a friend to have a luxury condo in NYC. These so called leaders are just milking everyone. What a disgrace.

Well of course they did😔, corporations will exploit every little opportunity, in turn they line up cushy roles for slimy politicians in exchange for not fixing these “loopholes”.

I can’t speak to multi colour perse, however the creality K2 went on sale today for certain countries and they have a 50% off sale for a limited number of units, they sold out today’s stock but will have it again tomorrow then they will drop to 40% then 30%. Might be good if your willing to be a beta tester essentially.

The Prusa units seems to waste less filament.

https://youtu.be/DUvkz-XcYRs?si=R6Z63zq1g9rEhnfH

I think this might be a method.

I cannot comment on the noise of the Kailh browns at the moment as the board has been giving me some grief and I am waiting on new Elite-C controllers from Omega Keys. The keycaps came from ChocFox, the PCBs were ordered directly from JLCPCB using Foostans design, everything else was mainly through amazon. As for the acrylic, I have my own CO2 laser and just cut them out of 1.5mm clear, also from Foostans GitHub repository.

There are several good tutorials out there with parts lists and the build process, Marek Piechut has a good one called Corne MX 3.0 Keyboard Build Guide.

I wanted something super thin so soldered the controller to the board, I do not suggest this as I had some errors on my part and destroyed the controller, thus I’m waiting for two new ones before I can use the board, until then I’m stuck with my hand wired dactyl manuforms.

Just make sure you know what board and keycaps you want, sounds like the Corne chocolate to me, and pay close attention to the LEDs if you go that route, I have 600 that are of no use to me and am waiting on the proper ones.

Other than that have fun and there are plenty of people willing to offer help and advice between here and Discord.

I’m building a low pro Corne, Kailh browns with ChocFox keycaps, it’ll be my travel keyboard.