It looks like he pretty much invented surfing tidal bores on rivers, rather than surfing in general, and did it on a board he’d made himself.
I quite like knowing there were and are people like that about, even if you probably shouldn’t look too closely at their politics. Knowing the spirit of adventure is alive and well gives me a little hope that things will turn out ok, and laughing at their bizarre antics is always a bit of a boost.
did he not go on to pioneer surfing?
It looks like he pretty much invented surfing tidal bores on rivers, rather than surfing in general, and did it on a board he’d made himself.
I quite like knowing there were and are people like that about, even if you probably shouldn’t look too closely at their politics. Knowing the spirit of adventure is alive and well gives me a little hope that things will turn out ok, and laughing at their bizarre antics is always a bit of a boost.